Hair chemical reformation services are essential skills for cosmetology professionals aiming to transform hair texture and style through chemical processes. In Kenya, these services are in high demand across salons in urban centres such as Nairobi and Mombasa, where clients seek both aesthetic enhancement and hair manageability. Mastery of hair preparation and chemical techniques ensures safe, effective treatments that maintain hair integrity while achieving the desired look. This chapter focuses on the practical and theoretical knowledge needed to perform hair chemical reformation services with professionalism and care.

2.1 Hair Preparation

Hair preparation is the foundational step before applying any chemical reformation treatment. Proper preparation ensures that the hair and scalp are in optimal condition to receive chemicals, which reduces the risk of damage and improves the effectiveness of the treatment. In salons where hair types vary widely, understanding preparation tailored to different hair textures, including afro-textured hair, is critical for successful outcomes.

Shampooing

Shampooing is the cleansing of the hair and scalp to remove dirt, sebum, sweat and product buildup before a perm or curl. Residue left on the hair can form a barrier that stops chemicals from penetrating evenly, and it can also react with the chemicals. Example: a teacher who applies oil sheen and heavy pomade every day may need a clarifying shampoo before a perm so that the chemical reaches the hair fibre evenly.

Before a relaxer the hair is not shampooed; it is shampooed only after the relaxer, with neutralising shampoo. Shampooing as preparation is therefore done before a perm or curl, and it is done gently, without massaging the scalp.

The scalp must be treated gently during shampooing. Scratching or scrubbing with the nails can cause tiny abrasions that make the scalp sting or burn when chemicals are applied. Before a relaxer the scalp's natural sebum acts as a protective layer against hydroxide chemicals, which is why it is not removed beforehand. Always follow the manufacturer's instructions on whether, and how long before the service, the hair should be shampooed, because this differs between products.

Tools and materials for shampooing:

Procedure for shampooing before a perm or curl:

1. Prepare the client: Drape the client with a cape and towel, and put on gloves. Ask the client to remove earrings, necklaces and other accessories that may get in the way.
2. Check the scalp: Look for cuts, sores or irritation before wetting the hair. A scalp that is broken or inflamed contraindicates the chemical service.
3. Wet the hair: Wet the hair thoroughly with lukewarm water. Water that is too hot opens the cuticle excessively and can irritate the scalp.
4. Apply the shampoo: Pour a small amount of shampoo into the palm and spread it between the hands. Apply it evenly through the hair.
5. Cleanse the scalp and hair: Cleanse gently with the pads of the fingers, without massaging or scratching the scalp, starting at the front hairline and moving to the nape. Work the lather through the lengths and ends without rubbing them together.
6. Rinse thoroughly: Rinse with lukewarm water until the water runs clear. Leftover shampoo can react with the chemicals and cause dryness or irritation.
7. Repeat if needed: If the hair is heavily coated with products, repeat the shampoo and rinse once more.
8. Blot dry: Press the hair gently with a towel to remove excess water, without rubbing, so that the hair is damp but not dripping.

Conditioning and drying after shampooing: if the product instructions allow conditioning before the service, use only a light conditioner, because heavy conditioners coat the hair and block chemical penetration. Some products require the hair to be dry or only slightly damp, so check the manufacturer's directions first. Avoid hot dryers, which dehydrate the hair and scalp; use a cool or warm setting only when drying is necessary.

Detangling

Detangling is the careful separation of knots and tangles in the hair before any chemical is applied. Tangled hair prevents the product from spreading evenly, so some strands are over-processed while others are missed. It is especially important for afro-textured and coily hair, which knots easily and breaks if combed roughly. Example: a hospital nurse who wears her hair in a long-term style may have matted sections at the roots that must be released slowly before the service.

Tools and materials for detangling:

Procedure for detangling:

1. Section the hair: Divide the hair into four or more manageable parts and clip them. Working in small parts prevents new tangles.
2. Prepare the hair for the service: Before a perm or curl the hair is detangled damp after shampooing. Before a relaxer the hair is detangled dry, gently, with the fingers and a wide-tooth comb, and no water or conditioner is added.
3. Start at the ends: Hold the section firmly above the knot with one hand. Use the wide-tooth comb to work out the ends first.
4. Move upwards gradually: Once the ends are free, comb a little higher each time until you reach the roots. Never drag the comb from the roots through a knot.
5. Release stubborn knots by hand: Use the fingers to pull a hard knot apart strand by strand. Cutting or forcing the comb through it causes breakage.
6. Confirm the hair is free of knots: When the hair is free of knots, pass the wide-tooth comb gently through to confirm that it moves from root to end with ease.
7. Check the scalp: Look again for scratches caused during detangling, since an injured scalp must not receive chemicals.

Before a relaxer, detangle dry and gently, without scratching the scalp, because the scalp must stay free of abrasions.

Basing

Basing is the application of a protective cream or oil-based product to the scalp and surrounding skin before a chemical service. The base forms a barrier that reduces contact between the chemical and the skin, which lowers the risk of burns and irritation. Example: a stylist in a hotel salon applies base around the hairline, ears and nape of a client who has a sensitive scalp so that any drip does not touch bare skin.

The base is applied to the skin and scalp, not over the hair that will be treated, because the cream would block the chemical from entering the hair. How much of the scalp is based depends on the product and the type of service, so follow the manufacturer's instructions.

Organising the hair into sections before basing keeps the partings clear. Divide the hair into quadrants with clips and bands so that base and chemical can be applied systematically from one section to the next.

Tools and materials for basing:

Procedure for basing:

1. Check the scalp first: Confirm that the scalp is free of cuts, sores or irritation. Base does not make it safe to apply chemicals to a broken scalp.
2. Wear gloves and prepare the client: The client should already be draped (see 1.4 Client Draping). Part the hair into sections so the scalp is visible.
3. Base the hairline: Apply a thin, even layer of base along the front hairline, the temples and the nape. Make sure it reaches the skin edge without covering the hair to be treated.
4. Base around the ears: Apply the base around and behind the ears, where chemicals easily run or drip.
5. Base the partings and scalp: Apply base along the partings and on exposed scalp areas as directed by the manufacturer. Use a light touch so that the base does not spread onto the hair lengths.
6. Protect the ears and forehead: Place cotton wool or a cotton strip along the hairline if required. Replace it if it becomes damp.
7. Check for gaps: Inspect the hairline and nape for any area left uncovered. Reapply a thin layer where needed.

Chapter Summary

This chapter covered the essential steps involved in performing hair chemical reformation services, starting with hair preparation to ensure the hair is clean, detangled, and assessed for suitability before any chemical application. It then explored the techniques of relaxing hair, detailing the hair relaxing procedure which involves the careful application of chemical relaxers to alter the hair’s structure safely. The chapter also examined the perming procedure, describing how the hair is chemically restructured to create curls or waves. Various hair chemical reformation application techniques were discussed, emphasizing the importance of precision and timing to achieve the desired results while minimizing damage. Finally, the chapter highlighted after care advice, guiding clients on maintaining hair health and prolonging the effects of the chemical treatment through proper care practices. Together, these components provide a comprehensive understanding of hair chemical reformation services in a professional setting.