Chemical reformation services are a vital component of advanced cosmetology, enabling hairstylists to alter the natural structure of hair to achieve desired textures and styles. For Level 6 cosmetology professionals in Kenya, mastering the preparation for this service is essential to ensure client safety, hair integrity, and optimal results. This chapter focuses on foundational knowledge, including understanding key terminology and the critical role of client consultation before commencing any chemical hair treatment.

1.1 Definition of Terms

Understanding the technical language related to chemical reformation is fundamental for cosmetology professionals. Clear comprehension of these terms allows precise communication with clients and colleagues, and ensures correct application of products and techniques in a salon or spa environment.

Chemical Relaxing

Chemical relaxing is the process of using a chemical product, called a relaxer, to permanently straighten or loosen the natural curl pattern of hair. The relaxer softens the hair and acts on the disulphide bonds that hold the keratin chains in their curled shape, so that the hair can be combed straight and then fixed in the new shape. The straightening is permanent only on the hair that has been treated, so new growth at the roots keeps its natural curl and needs a retouch.

Two main families of relaxer are used. Caustic relaxers, based on hydroxides, change the bonds permanently and are followed by a neutralising shampoo that removes chemical residue and restores the normal pH of the hair and scalp. Thio relaxers, based on thioglycolate, break the bonds, and a neutraliser is applied afterwards to rebuild them in the new, straightened position. Using the correct relaxer and neutraliser is crucial to avoid scalp irritation and to protect the hair's structural integrity.

Example: A client with tightly coiled hair visits the salon every few months. The stylist applies relaxer only to the new growth at the roots, rinses, and uses a neutralising shampoo, so the previously relaxed lengths are not over-processed.

Perming

Perming, short for permanent waving, is the chemical process of giving hair a lasting wave or curl. The hair is wound on rods or rollers of a chosen size, a lotion softens the bonds inside the hair, and a neutraliser then sets the hair in the shape of the rod. Smaller rods give tighter curls and larger rods give looser waves.

On tightly coiled hair the perm is a curly (soft curl) perm done in three steps: a thio rearranger (step 1) relaxes the natural coil, a curling lotion (step 2) is applied to hair wound on rods to form the new curl, and a neutraliser or normaliser (step 3) rebuilds the bonds in the curl shape.

A perm works on the same principle as thio relaxing but in the opposite direction: the hair is moulded round a form instead of being flattened straight. The disulphide bonds are broken and then rebuilt, this time in the new curved position. The result lasts until the permed hair grows out or is cut off.

Example: A client with tightly coiled hair wants soft, defined curls that are easy to manage. The stylist applies the rearranger and rinses it off, winds the hair on medium rods, applies the curling lotion, checks the curl development, and then applies the neutraliser to fix the curl.

Consultation

Consultation is the planned, two-way conversation between the stylist and the client that takes place before any chemical service begins. During it the stylist listens to what the client wants, asks about the history of the hair, such as previous relaxers, perms, colour and any reactions, and explains what the service can and cannot achieve. The outcome is an agreed plan that both the stylist and the client understand.

A good consultation is more than a greeting. The stylist asks open questions, looks at pictures the client may bring, discusses the expected result, time and cost in Ksh, and records the answers on a client record card.

Example: A client asks for a perm, but mentions during the consultation that she relaxed her hair six weeks ago. The stylist explains that hair relaxed with a hydroxide (lye or no-lye) relaxer cannot be permed, because the two chemicals are not compatible and the hair would break. A perm can be done only on natural hair, once the relaxed lengths have grown out and been cut off.

Other terms used in chemical reformation

• Chemical reformation: The process of permanently altering the natural structure of hair strands using chemical agents. It involves breaking the hair's disulphide bonds and, in perming and thio relaxing, reforming them, to change its texture, such as from curly to straight or from straight to curly. Chemical relaxing and perming are the two main forms of chemical reformation, chosen by clients who want long-lasting results that reduce daily hair management time.
• Disulphide bonds: Strong chemical links between sulphur atoms in the keratin protein chains within hair fibres. These bonds determine the hair's natural shape and strength. Chemical reformation treatments target these bonds to reshape hair, but improper handling can weaken the hair and lead to damage or breakage.
• Processing time: The duration for which the chemical agent is left on the hair to achieve the desired structural change. It varies with hair type, porosity and the strength of the product used. Accurate timing is vital to prevent over-processing, which can result in hair breakage or scalp burns, especially on fragile or previously treated hair.
• Neutralising: The step that stops the action of the chemical once it has been rinsed from the hair. After a perm or thio relaxer, the neutraliser rebuilds the broken bonds in their new position. After a hydroxide relaxer, the neutralising shampoo removes the remaining alkali and returns the hair and scalp to their normal pH, because those bonds have been changed permanently and are not rebuilt.
• Retouch: A chemical service applied only to the new growth at the roots, so that already treated lengths are not processed again. It is done as the natural hair grows out, which is why relaxed or permed clients return to the salon at regular intervals.

Chapter Summary

This chapter began by clarifying key terms related to chemical reformation services, establishing a foundation for understanding the processes involved. It emphasized the importance of thorough consultation with clients to identify their needs and expectations before proceeding. The use of personal protective gear was highlighted to ensure safety for both the stylist and the client during chemical treatments. Proper client draping was explained, including its purpose to protect the client’s clothing and skin from chemicals. The chapter detailed how to analyze the client’s hair and scalp, outlining the significance of this step and the various factors that must be considered to prevent damage and achieve optimal results. It then described the essential tools and equipment required for chemical reformation, their specific uses, and the criteria for selecting appropriate items. Finally, the chapter introduced the range of chemical reformation products and supplies necessary to perform the service effectively and safely.