2.1 Drafting basic free hand patterns

Free hand pattern drafting is the method of drawing a garment pattern directly onto paper (or straight onto fabric) from body measurements, using a ruler, tape measure and tailor's chalk or pencil, without a ready-made block. The tailor divides and marks the measurements, joins the points with straight lines and smooth curves, and checks every line against the body it is meant to fit. It is fast, needs little equipment and is the method used by most small tailoring workshops for made-to-measure gents' garments such as the basic shirt, shorts and trousers. Example: a tailor at Gikomba market drafts a client's trouser front straight onto brown paper in about fifteen minutes from a waist, hip, seat, inside leg and outside leg measurement.

Tools and materials for free hand drafting

Ease allowances

Measurements are taken as described under taking body measurements, and ease is then added so the garment allows movement and breathing. Ease is shared among the pattern pieces before drafting.

• Shirt chest: about 8 to 12 cm total ease on a basic shirt, so 2 to 3 cm on each quarter.
• Shirt waist: about 6 to 10 cm total, depending on whether the fit is straight or slim.
• Trouser seat: about 4 to 6 cm total, so 1 to 1.5 cm on each quarter.
• Shorts thigh: about 4 to 6 cm so that the leg does not ride up when the wearer sits.
• Waistbands: little or no ease (0.5 to 1 cm) so that the garment stays up.

Principles of free hand drafting

• Work from a base line: every draft starts from a vertical line (centre front or centre back) and a horizontal line (neck, waist or top line) drawn at right angles.
• Divide girth measurements: the chest, waist and seat are divided by four for a half front and half back (quarter measurements), plus a share of the ease.
• Mark before joining: all key points (neck depth, shoulder point, armhole depth, waist, hip, hem) are marked first and only then joined.
• Smooth curves: curves such as the armhole, neck and crotch are drawn in one smooth stroke with a curve or by eye, never as broken lines.
• Check matching seams: side seams of front and back must be the same length, and the armhole must match the sleeve head.
• Label as you go: each line and point is lettered or labelled so the draft can be followed and corrected.

Procedure for drafting a basic free hand pattern

1. Take and record measurements: measure the client over light clothing and write each measurement on the measurement sheet with the ease to be added.
2. Draw the base lines: rule the centre line and the top line at a right angle using the L-square.
3. Mark the lengths: measure down the centre line and mark the main levels, for example neck, armhole depth, waist and hem for a shirt, or waist, seat, crotch, knee and hem for trousers.
4. Square across: draw horizontal guide lines at each level.
5. Mark the widths: measure along each guide line the quarter girth plus ease and mark the points.
6. Shape the curves: draw the neckline, armhole, side seam, crotch or hip curves smoothly.
7. True the lines: check that matching seams are equal and that corners are square at centre front, centre back and hem.
8. Add labels: write the garment name, piece name, size and grain line on the draft.

Common faults in free hand drafting

• Wrong measurement division: dividing the full girth by two instead of four makes the garment twice too wide.
• Missing ease: a draft made to exact body size gives a tight, uncomfortable garment.
• Uneven curves: jagged armholes and crotch curves cause puckered seams.
• Unequal seams: front and back side seams of different lengths will not sew together cleanly.
• Unlabelled drafts: pieces get mixed up and are cut the wrong way.