5.1 Personal protective gears

Honey bees defend their colonies by stinging, and a disturbed colony can send out hundreds of defenders within seconds. Personal protective gear lets the beekeeper work calmly, because a person who is not afraid of being stung handles frames gently and makes fewer mistakes that provoke the bees. The gear includes clothing that covers the body, the face, the hands and the feet, a smoker to calm the colony, and a first aid kit to treat any stings or injuries that still occur. No colony should be opened until every item is checked and in place.

Putting on and checking protective gear

Protective gear only works when it is complete, undamaged and worn in the right order. A short routine before every visit to the apiary prevents most avoidable stings.

1. Remove strong scents: Avoid perfume, scented lotions and strong-smelling soaps before handling bees.
2. Wear plain clothes under the suit: Light cotton clothing is suitable, and loose, flapping material should be avoided.
3. Put on the bee suit: Step into the suit and zip it fully.
4. Put on boots: Put on the boots, then pull the suit legs over them and seal them with the elastic, a strap or tape.
5. Fit the veil: Place the hat and veil on, check that the mesh is clear of the face, and zip or tie it to the suit.
6. Wear gloves: Pull the gauntlets over the sleeves and check that no skin is showing at the wrists.
7. Inspect each other: Check a partner for gaps at the neck, wrists, ankles and zips before going to the hives.
8. Check the smoker and first aid kit: Make sure the smoker is lit and producing cool smoke, and that the first aid kit is at hand.

5.1.1 Bee suits

A bee suit is a full-length overall worn over ordinary clothes to stop bees reaching the skin. It is made from thick cotton or a ventilated multilayer fabric that a sting cannot easily pass through, and it is normally white or another light colour. Bees have evolved to defend against dark, rough or furry animals such as honey badgers, so light, smooth clothing is less likely to provoke them.

Example: A school beekeeping club keeps three hives behind its science block. The teacher buys one bee suit in a small size for the pupils and one in a large size for adults, because a suit that is too loose can trap bees in its folds.

Features of a good bee suit

• Light colour: White, cream or pale yellow reduces the defensive response and also keeps the wearer cooler in the sun.
• Thick, tightly woven fabric: A sting cannot push through easily, and the fabric does not cling to the skin when it is pulled tight.
• Elasticated cuffs and ankles: They close the openings at the wrists and legs so that bees cannot crawl inside.
• Strong zip and flap: A zip that closes completely, preferably with an outer flap, keeps bees from entering through the front.
• Correct size: The suit should allow free movement when bending and lifting, but it should not hang loosely or drag on the ground.
• Ventilation: In hot areas, a ventilated multilayer fabric lets air pass through and reduces heat stress while still keeping stings away from the skin.

Care of the bee suit

• Wash regularly: Use unscented soap, because strong perfumes may attract or irritate bees, and dry the suit in the shade.
• Remove stingers: Pull out any stingers left in the fabric after each visit, since they carry an alarm scent that makes other bees more aggressive.
• Repair holes: Check seams, knees and elbows for thin patches or tears and mend them before the next use.
• Store dry: Keep the suit clean and dry in a closed cupboard away from rodents and moisture.

5.1.2 Veil

A veil protects the face, head and neck, which are the areas where stings are most painful and most dangerous. It consists of a fine mesh screen held away from the face by a hat or frame, so that a bee landing on the mesh cannot reach the skin. Good vision through the veil is essential, since the beekeeper must see the bees, the queen and the combs clearly while working.

Example: Members of a farmers' beekeeping group check each other's veils at the apiary gate, making sure the mesh is intact and zipped to the suit before any hive is opened.

Types of veil

• Round-hat veil: A mesh skirt hangs from a wide-brimmed hat, and the brim holds the mesh away from the face. It is light and easy to put on, but it must be tied or tucked in at the neck and shoulders.
• Fencing veil: A mesh front with a rigid or semi-rigid hood, usually fastened to the zip of a suit. It gives a secure seal around the head and keeps the mesh well clear of the face.
• Veil built into the suit: The veil is part of the bee suit, so there is no gap at the neck. It is the most secure option for beginners.

Points to check before use

• Mesh condition: Look for holes, torn seams and loose stitching, because a single gap lets bees reach the face.
• Distance from the face: The mesh must stand clear of the nose, ears and cheeks, or bees can sting through it.
• Neck seal: The zip, tapes or elastic must close the veil completely against the suit collar.
• Visibility: Black mesh is generally easier to see through than white mesh, and the mesh should be kept clean and free of propolis and dust.
• Spectacles and hair: Long hair should be tucked under the hat, and the veil should fit comfortably over spectacles.

5.1.3 Gloves

Gloves protect the hands and wrists, which are the parts of the beekeeper most exposed while handling frames, bars and the hive tool. Bees defending a colony often go for moving hands, so the hands receive many stings if they are unprotected. Gloves should be long enough to cover the wrists and forearms, and their cuffs should be pulled over the sleeve cuffs and secured with elastic so that there is no gap.

Example: A SACCO with a youth apiary issues each member a pair of long-cuff leather gloves. Members learn to put the gloves on after zipping the suit so that the cuffs overlap the sleeves.

Types of gloves

• Leather gloves: They are thick and durable and give very good protection against stings. They are less flexible and can become stiff and hot, and they gather propolis easily.
• Canvas or cotton gloves with leather palms: They are lighter and cooler than full leather gloves and allow better movement, but a sting may sometimes pass through the thinner fabric.
• Rubber or nitrile gloves: They are thin, waterproof and easy to wash, and they give better feel for the work. A sting can sometimes pass through, so they suit gentle colonies better.

Using and maintaining gloves

• Choose the right fit: Gloves that are too large reduce grip and make the beekeeper clumsy, while gloves that are too tight restrict blood flow.
• Close the cuffs: Pull the gauntlet over the sleeve, or fasten the sleeve over the glove with elastic, so that bees cannot crawl up the arm.
• Handle frames gently: Thick gloves reduce feeling, so slow, deliberate movements are needed to avoid crushing bees.
• Clean after use: Wash gloves with unscented soap and water, and scrape off wax and propolis. Dry leather in the shade so that it does not crack.
• Replace worn gloves: Torn or heavily stung gloves hold the alarm scent and should be repaired or replaced.

5.1.4 Boots

Boots protect the feet and lower legs from stings, because bees that fall to the ground often crawl upwards towards the legs. Boots also guard against thorns, snakes, wet grass and falling tools in the apiary. Rubber gumboots are practical since they are smooth, easy to wash and give no foothold for the bees.

Example: A tea estate with hives along the edge of the plantation supplies its beekeeping team with white gumboots. The trousers of the bee suit are pulled over the boot tops and sealed with an elastic band or tape.

Points to observe when using boots

• Closed footwear only: Sandals, open shoes and bare feet allow bees to sting the toes and ankles and should never be worn in the apiary.
• Smooth outer surface: Rubber and smooth leather give bees nothing to cling to, while rough or woolly material attracts them.
• Seal the trouser legs: The suit legs must go over the boots and be closed with elastic, a strap or tape, or bees can crawl in at the ankle.
• Light colour: Light-coloured boots are less provocative to bees, and they also show up dirt and propolis so that they get cleaned.
• Good grip and fit: Soles with a good tread prevent slipping on wet grass or sloping ground, and a well-fitting boot lets the beekeeper walk quietly and carry equipment safely.
• Wash after use: Rinse off mud, wax and stings with unscented soap and water and let the boots dry in the shade.

5.1.5 Smoker

A smoker is a hand-held device that produces cool smoke to calm a colony before and during hive inspection. Smoke masks the alarm scent released by guard bees, which interrupts the signal that tells other bees to attack, and it makes the bees feed on honey, which tends to make them calmer. A well-managed smoker lets the beekeeper work for long periods without provoking the colony.

Example: A county livestock office runs a demonstration apiary for farmers. The extension officer lights the smoker before everyone gathers at the hives, so that it is already producing steady cool smoke when the first hive is opened.

Parts of a smoker

• Firebox: The metal container that holds the burning fuel. It must be strong enough to withstand repeated heating.
• Grate: A perforated plate at the base that lets air pass up through the fuel and keeps the fire burning.
• Bellows: A flexible chamber that the beekeeper squeezes to push air through the firebox and force smoke out of the nozzle.
• Cone lid and nozzle: The cone directs the smoke in a narrow stream and cools it slightly. The lid also closes the firebox when the smoker is not in use.
• Heat shield: A guard around the firebox that protects the hands and clothing from burns.

Suitable fuels for a smoker

• Dry grass and dry leaves: They light easily and burn quickly, so they are good for starting the fire.
• Hessian or sacking: It burns slowly and gives a steady, cool smoke.
• Dried cow dung: It smoulders for a long time and makes cool smoke.
• Wood shavings and dry twigs: They help the fire last longer once it is established.
• Pine needles and dry bark: They burn slowly, but they should be well dried to avoid harsh smoke.
• Fuels to avoid: Never use plastic, rubber, treated wood, oil, paraffin or any chemical, since these give off toxic fumes and can taint the honey and harm the bees.

Lighting and using a smoker

1. Prepare the smoker: Empty old ash from the firebox and make sure the grate is clear so that air can flow through.
2. Light starter fuel: Light a small handful of dry grass or paper and drop it into the firebox.
3. Pump the bellows gently: Puff a few times until the flames catch the starter fuel.
4. Add larger fuel: Add slow-burning material such as hessian, dried dung or wood shavings a little at a time, pumping to keep the fire alive.
5. Pack the fuel loosely: Fill the firebox to about three-quarters with fuel, pressing it down lightly. Packing too tightly cuts off air and puts the fire out.
6. Produce cool smoke: Close the lid and puff until the smoke is thick, white and cool. Hot or thin blue smoke can burn the bees.
7. Test the smoke: Hold the nozzle to the back of the hand to check that the smoke is cool.
8. Apply the smoke: Give two or three gentle puffs at the entrance, wait about a minute, then puff lightly across the tops of the frames or bars when the hive is opened. Use as little smoke as needed.

Putting out and storing a smoker

• Close the nozzle: Plug the nozzle with a handful of fresh green grass or a cork so that the fire starves of air.
• Empty the ash safely: When cool, tip the ash on bare ground away from dry grass, and make sure nothing is still glowing.
• Never leave a smoker alight: A smoker left near dry grass or wooden hives is a fire risk.
• Clean and store: Scrape off the tar-like deposits from the nozzle and firebox from time to time, and keep the smoker dry.

5.1.6 First aid kit

A first aid kit is a stocked, clearly marked container that holds the basic items needed to treat stings, cuts, burns and other minor injuries in the apiary, before a casualty reaches a health facility. Most stings cause only pain and local swelling, but some people have a severe allergic reaction that is a medical emergency. The kit must therefore be kept where it can be reached quickly, be checked regularly and be used by someone who knows how to apply first aid.

Example: A farmers' cooperative with an apiary two hours from the nearest hospital keeps a stocked first aid kit in the shed, and a mobile phone with the hospital's number saved in it. Every worker knows where both are kept.

Contents of a first aid kit

• Antiseptic solution and clean water: They clean stings, cuts and grazes to reduce the risk of infection.
• Adhesive plasters and sterile gauze: They cover small wounds and keep them clean.
• Bandages and triangular bandage: They hold dressings in place, support injured limbs and control bleeding.
• Scissors and tweezers: Scissors cut dressings and tape, and tweezers remove thorns or splinters.
• Disposable gloves: They protect the first aider and the casualty from infection when treating wounds.
• Cold pack or clean cloth for cold compresses: It reduces pain and swelling at a sting site.
• Burn dressing: It protects burns from smoker or fire accidents.
• Soothing cream and antihistamine: They may ease itching and swelling from stings, but medicines should be selected on the advice of a health worker and used according to instructions.
• Emergency contact list: It gives numbers for the nearest health facility, ambulance service and the person in charge.

Treating a bee sting

1. Move away from the hive: Walk calmly to a safe place away from the bees so that more stings do not follow.
2. Remove the sting at once: Scrape it out with a fingernail or blade if possible, because speed matters most.
3. Wash the area: Clean the site with soap and clean water, or an antiseptic.
4. Cool the area: Apply a cold compress for several minutes to reduce pain and swelling.
5. Keep the person resting: Let the casualty sit down, and observe them for at least 30 minutes for any sign of a general reaction.
6. Watch for danger signs: If any signs of a severe allergic reaction appear, get emergency medical help immediately.
7. Record and restock: Note the incident and replace anything used from the kit.

Signs of a severe allergic reaction

A person with any of these signs must be taken to a hospital without delay, and anyone known to be allergic to stings should not work with bees unless a doctor has advised them on how to do so safely.

• Difficulty breathing or wheezing: The airways may be narrowing, which is life-threatening.
• Swelling of the face, lips, tongue or throat: It can block the airway and needs urgent treatment.
• Hives or widespread rash: Itchy raised patches spreading over the body away from the sting site suggest a general allergic reaction.
• Dizziness, weakness or fainting: They show that blood pressure may be falling.
• Rapid pulse, nausea or vomiting: They may accompany a serious reaction.