Animal Production Technology  ·  Level 5
Bee Production
Chapter 4: Manage bee pest and diseases
📚 5 Topics
⚑ What you will be able to do

By the end of this chapter, you will be able to:

  • Wear the appropriate protective gear correctly every time.
  • Follow the correct safety procedures to protect yourself while working with bees.
  • Understand the importance of safety when managing bee pests and diseases.

Mastering these skills will help you stay safe and confident while taking care of your bees, ensuring a healthy and productive hive.

Compiled by: Bonface Omondi

4.1 Personal Protective gears

Honey bees defend their colony by stinging, and each sting releases an alarm scent that draws more bees to the same spot. Personal protective gear (PPE) keeps stings away from the most exposed parts of the body, which are the face, neck, hands and feet. It also lets the beekeeper work calmly and without sudden movements, which in turn keeps the bees calmer. Example: a worker who opens a hive in ordinary shirt sleeves is likely to be driven off by stings to the face and wrists, while the same task done in a full bee suit, gloves and gumboots can be finished quietly in about twenty minutes.

Care, storage and replacement of protective gear

Protective gear only protects while it is clean, intact and ready for use. Torn seams, hardened leather or cracked rubber give bees an entry point and can fail at the worst moment. Example: a college apiary keeps its suits, gloves and boots in a labelled cupboard and inspects them at the start of each term, so that damaged items are repaired before trainees use them.

  • Wash the suit gently: Hand wash or use a mild wash with an unscented soap, because strong scents can irritate bees. Dry it fully in the shade before storing.
  • Wipe gloves and boots clean: Use a damp cloth or water to remove honey, wax and propolis. Leather gloves should be dried away from direct heat so they do not stiffen and crack.
  • Check for damage regularly: Look at the seams, zips, veil mesh, glove fingertips and boot soles. Patch small holes at once and retire items that cannot be mended safely.
  • Store away from pests and damp: Keep the gear in a dry, closed place where rodents, cockroaches and moulds cannot reach it. Wet storage rots fabric and leather.
  • Keep gear separate from the hive area: Do not leave suits hanging near the hives, where bees and robbing insects are attracted by the smell of honey and old stings.
  • Do not share unwashed gear: Gear that has absorbed sweat and alarm scent from a previous user is best washed before the next person wears it.

Limits of protection and first response to stings

Protective gear reduces stings but does not remove the risk, because a few bees may still find a gap or sting through thin cloth. A beekeeper should therefore know how to react and when to seek help. Example: a beekeeping group may agree that no member works at the hives alone, so that anyone who reacts badly to stings can be helped at once.

  • Know your own sensitivity: A person with a history of strong reactions to stings, such as swelling far from the sting or difficulty breathing, should consult a doctor before keeping bees.
  • Work with a companion: A second person can notice early signs of a bad reaction and call for help.
  • Remove the sting at once: Scrape it out with a fingernail or blade if possible, because speed matters most.
  • Leave the area calmly: Move away from the hive to a sheltered place, since the alarm scent at the sting site draws more bees.
  • Watch for warning signs: Swelling of the face or throat, widespread rash, dizziness or difficulty breathing are emergencies and need urgent medical care at the nearest health facility.
  • Keep a first aid kit nearby: Include clean water, antiseptic, cotton wool and any medicines advised by a doctor.

4.1.1 Bee suit

A bee suit is a loose, light-coloured garment that covers the body from neck to ankle and carries a veil to protect the head and face. It is the main barrier between the beekeeper and the bees, because most stings land on the head, neck, arms and legs. Example: a farm apiary of top-bar hives issues every harvesting helper with a full suit, so that the helpers can lift bars and carry honey buckets near the hives without being stung.

Common types of bee suit differ in how much of the body they cover.

Type Coverage Best use
Full-body suit with attached veil Head, neck, body, arms and legs Routine work, beginners, working with defensive colonies
Jacket with attached veil Head, neck, trunk and arms; legs rely on trousers Experienced beekeepers handling calm colonies
Separate veil and hat Head and neck only Short, quick tasks with very gentle bees

Features of a good bee suit

  • Light colour: White or pale colours are best. Bees treat dark, rough or furry material as a sign of an animal that raids hives, such as the honey badger, and they attack it more readily.
  • Thick, tightly woven fabric: Stings must not pass through the cloth. Thick cotton or multi-layer ventilated material keeps the stinger from reaching the skin.
  • Attached veil: The veil is made of fine black mesh held away from the face by a hat or frame. Black mesh lets the beekeeper see clearly, and the frame stops bees from stinging through the mesh onto the skin.
  • Elastic cuffs and ankles: Elastic closes the sleeves and legs so that bees cannot crawl inside.
  • Covered zips and strong seams: A flap over the zip and double-stitched seams stop bees from finding a gap and stop the suit from splitting while the beekeeper bends and reaches.
  • Loose fit: A loose suit keeps the cloth off the skin, so a sting that lands on the outside cannot reach the body. It also allows free movement and air circulation.

Wearing the bee suit

  1. Inspect the suit: Check the fabric, seams, zips and veil mesh for tears or thin patches. Mend any hole before use, because a single gap is enough for bees to enter.
  2. Prepare yourself: Remove jewellery, watches and strong perfume or scented lotion, which can irritate bees or trap them against the skin. Put on long trousers and socks underneath.
  3. Step into the suit: Put in your legs first, then your arms, and zip up fully. Make sure the zip flaps lie flat over the zip.
  4. Fit the veil and hat: Raise the veil frame, settle the hat on your head and zip or tie the veil to the suit. Check that no gap is left at the neck.
  5. Put on the boots and seal the ankles: Wear gumboots under the suit legs, and pull the ankle bands snugly over the boot tops or fasten them with straps.
  6. Seal the wrists and add gloves: Pull the elastic cuffs snugly over the wrists, then put on gloves so that their cuffs cover the sleeve ends.
  7. Do a partner check: Ask a colleague to look for gaps at the neck, wrists and ankles before you approach the hive.
  8. Remove it after work: Move away from the hives before taking the suit off, so that stray bees on the cloth are not carried into living or storage areas. Check the folds for bees before folding the suit.

4.1.2 Gloves

Gloves protect the hands and wrists, which are in constant contact with the frames and the bees during work at the hive. Bees readily sting hands because they are the part of the beekeeper nearest to the combs. Example: trainees handling frames of a colony in long-cuffed leather gloves work steadily, while a trainee who tries the same exercise bare-handed is likely to be stung within minutes.

Types of gloves

Type Material Advantages Limitations
Leather gauntlet gloves Goatskin or cowhide with a long cuff Strong protection, durable Thick, so feeling is reduced; stings and propolis stay on the leather
Ventilated gloves Layered cotton and mesh with a canvas cuff Cool and comfortable in warm weather Less protection than thick leather
Rubber or nitrile gloves Washable synthetic material Easy to clean, good grip, fine control Thin ones can be pierced by stingers

Features of good bee gloves

  • Long cuff: The cuff should reach well up the forearm and fit over the sleeve ends of the suit, so that bees cannot crawl into the sleeves.
  • Elastic wrist: An elastic band at the wrist holds the cuff firmly in place and closes the gap against the sleeve.
  • Correct size: Gloves that are too large slip and make handling frames clumsy, while gloves that are too small tear at the seams.
  • Good grip: A grippy palm keeps wet or propolis-coated frames from slipping and falling, which would crush bees and provoke the colony.
  • Light colour: Pale gloves, like the suit, are less likely to alarm the bees than dark ones.

Using gloves correctly

  • Move slowly: Thick gloves reduce touch, so reach and lift more slowly to avoid crushing bees between frames.
  • Remove stingers from the glove: A stinger left in the leather releases an alarm scent that attracts more stings to the same place. Scrape it off and, where it is practical, wipe the glove clean.
  • Do not wear damaged gloves: Holes at the fingertips or seams let bees through and should be repaired or the gloves replaced.
  • Change to nitrile for delicate work: Some tasks that need fine control, such as handling a queen, are easier in thin gloves, but remember that thin material gives less protection against stings.

4.1.3 Gumboots

Gumboots are waterproof rubber boots that protect the feet and ankles. Bees that fall from the combs or leave the hive land on the ground and crawl upward, and ankles are a favourite entry point if the legs are not sealed. Example: a beekeeper working in a damp apiary in light-coloured gumboots finds that the smooth rubber stops bees from gripping, and the sealed suit legs keep them away from the ankles.

Features of suitable gumboots

  • Smooth rubber surface: Bees cannot easily grip smooth rubber, and they cannot sting through it.
  • Calf-high height: Boots that reach mid-calf leave less exposed leg and give the suit legs a firm surface to sit against.
  • Light colour: White or pale boots are less alarming to bees than black ones and show up crawling bees more clearly.
  • Waterproof and easy to wash: Honey, wax and propolis wipe off rubber easily, and wet grass around apiaries does not soak the feet.
  • Good sole grip: A sturdy, non-slip sole prevents falls on damp or uneven ground and when carrying heavy supers.
  • Comfortable fit: The boot should leave room for socks and be neither loose enough to slip nor tight enough to pinch during long working periods.

Wearing gumboots with a bee suit

  1. Wear socks: Put on thick socks first to cushion the feet and prevent rubbing.
  2. Put on the boots: Make sure the heel is seated and the boots are free of cracks or splits.
  3. Cover the boot tops with the suit legs: Let the trouser legs of the suit hang outside the boots, so that crawling bees cannot drop inside from above.
  4. Seal the ankle: Close the gap with the suit's elastic or strap, or with a strong band around the boot top.
  5. Check before working: Walk a few steps to confirm that the suit legs stay in place and the boots feel secure.
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🔒4.2 Hive smoking and opening

Smoking and opening a hive are the first hands-on skills a beekeeper uses at the apiary. Smoke calms the colony so that the hive can be opened with fewer stings and less disturbance to the bees. A beekeeper who smokes too little is met by angry guard bees, and…

🔒4.3 Colony inspection

Colony inspection is the planned examination of the inside of a beehive to find out the condition of the bees, the queen, the brood, the food stores and the comb. It lets the beekeeper correct problems early, before a weak or crowded colony swarms, absconds or…

🔒4.4 Signs and symptoms of pest and diseases

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🔒4.5 Control measures

Control measures are the routine actions a beekeeper takes to stop pests and diseases from entering an apiary, to find them early, and to prevent them from spreading when they do appear. Prevention is cheaper and safer than cure, because many bee diseases cann…

Am I competent?

At the start of this chapter we promised you would be able to:

  • Wear the appropriate protective gear correctly every time.
  • Follow the correct safety procedures to protect yourself while working with bees.
  • Understand the importance of safety when managing bee pests and diseases.

Tick each one you can genuinely do.

So, are you there yet?

You're competent when you can confidently do 50% or more of what this chapter promised.

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