2.1 Hair preparation

Hair preparation is everything done to the hair and scalp after consultation and before the style is created. Clean, conditioned and detangled hair takes setting products evenly, holds a set longer and is less likely to break under heat or tension, so preparation decides how good and how lasting the finished style will be. At Level 5 the cosmetologist is expected to choose shampoo and conditioner from the hair and scalp analysis, explain the choice to the client and carry out the service safely and hygienically. Example: a stylist at a beauty salon in Tala chooses a moisturising shampoo and a leave-in conditioner for a client with dry, relaxed hair before a roller set.

2.1.1 Shampooing and conditioning

Shampooing removes dirt, sweat, sebum, dead skin cells and product build-up from the hair and scalp, while conditioning restores moisture, smooths the cuticle and makes the hair manageable. The two are done in sequence at the backwash basin with the client gowned and the water temperature tested on the inside of the stylist's wrist. Before starting, the scalp is checked for cuts, abrasions, infections (such as ringworm of the scalp or impetigo) and head lice, which are contra-indications to the service.

Chemistry of shampooing

Shampoo cleans because of surfactants (surface active agents). A surfactant molecule has two ends: a hydrophilic (water-loving) head and a lipophilic (oil-loving) tail.

• Lowering surface tension: Surfactants reduce the surface tension of water so that it wets the hair and scalp completely instead of running off.
• Attaching to oil: The oil-loving tails bury themselves in sebum and greasy dirt while the water-loving heads face outwards into the water.
• Emulsification: Massage and water movement roll the oil into tiny droplets surrounded by surfactant (micelles), which stay suspended in the water.
• Rinsing: The suspended dirt is carried away when the hair is rinsed, which is why thorough rinsing matters as much as lathering.
• Types of surfactant: Anionic surfactants (such as sodium lauryl sulphate and sodium laureth sulphate) clean strongly and lather well; amphoteric surfactants (such as cocamidopropyl betaine) are mild and used in baby and gentle shampoos; non-ionic surfactants are mild and stabilise foam; cationic surfactants are used in conditioners rather than shampoos.
• pH: Hair and scalp have a natural pH of about 4.5 to 5.5. Acid-balanced shampoos (pH 4.5 to 5.5) keep the cuticle closed, while alkaline shampoos (pH above 7) swell the hair and lift the cuticle, leaving it rough and porous.

Effects of shampooing and conditioning

• Clean scalp: Sebum, sweat, scales and product build-up are removed, reducing odour and itching.
• Softened and swollen hair: Water and shampoo swell the hair shaft slightly, which makes it easier to set and style.
• Smoother cuticle: Conditioner deposits a thin film on the hair and, being slightly acidic, helps the cuticle scales lie flat, which gives shine.
• Reduced static and tangling: Cationic conditioning agents are attracted to the negatively charged surface of damaged hair and neutralise static, so combing is easier.
• Improved moisture balance: Humectants such as glycerine and panthenol draw and hold moisture, improving elasticity.
• Possible negative effects: Harsh or alkaline shampoos, very hot water or over-shampooing strip natural oils and leave hair dry and brittle, and leftover conditioner can make hair limp and stop a set from holding.

Purpose of shampooing and conditioning

• Hygiene: To leave the hair and scalp clean and free of dirt and micro-organisms before service.
• Preparation for the service: To remove oils and residues that would stop setting lotion, gel or heat from working evenly.
• Condition and manageability: To restore moisture, reduce tangles and protect the hair from mechanical and heat damage during styling.
• Treating scalp conditions: To control mild dandruff or dry scalp with medicated or moisturising products.
• Relaxation: The massage stimulates circulation and relaxes the client, which is part of good service.
• Neutralising chemical residue: After a relaxer, a neutralising (normalising) shampoo removes alkaline residue and returns the hair to its normal pH.

Types of shampoo and conditioners

The product is chosen from the analysis: hair type, porosity, scalp condition and any previous chemical treatment.

• Moisturising shampoo: For dry, coarse or relaxed hair; contains oils and humectants.
• Clarifying shampoo: Removes heavy build-up of gels, oils and silicones; used occasionally, not every wash.
• Medicated (anti-dandruff) shampoo: Contains agents such as zinc pyrithione, ketoconazole or selenium sulphide; left on the scalp for the time on the label.
• Neutralising (normalising) shampoo: Used after relaxing; many have a colour indicator that changes when alkaline residue remains.
• Colour-protecting shampoo: Mild and acid-balanced, for tinted hair, to reduce colour fading.
• Baby or mild shampoo: Low-irritant amphoteric formula for children and sensitive scalps.
• Rinse-out (instant) conditioner: Applied after shampooing and rinsed after one to three minutes; detangles and adds shine.
• Leave-in conditioner: Sprayed or creamed onto towel-dried hair and not rinsed; gives slip for detangling and some heat protection.
• Deep (treatment) conditioner: Left on for 10 to 20 minutes, often under a steamer or hood dryer; moisturising types add moisture, protein types (with hydrolysed protein) strengthen damaged hair.
• Acid rinse: A light acidic rinse that closes the cuticle and adds shine after chemical services.

Forms of shampoo

• Liquid: The most common form; spreads easily and rinses well.
• Cream or lotion: Thicker and richer, usually with added conditioning agents for dry hair.
• Gel: Clear and thick, easy to control on the hair.
• Powder (dry shampoo): Absorbs oil without water; used for clients who cannot wet their hair, or between washes.
• Solid (bar) shampoo: A compressed bar rubbed onto wet hair; little packaging waste.
• Foam or aerosol: Dispensed as a foam, often as dry shampoo or for quick spot cleaning.
• Concentrate: Bought in bulk and diluted with water as the label directs, which lowers salon costs.

Massage techniques

Scalp massage during shampooing and conditioning cleans the scalp, stimulates blood circulation and relaxes the client. Movements are firm but gentle, made with the cushions (pads) of the fingers, never the nails.

• Effleurage: Light, even stroking movements made with the palms or fingers, used to begin and end the massage and to spread shampoo or conditioner.
• Rotary (friction): Small circular movements of the finger pads that move the scalp over the skull; the main shampooing movement, working from the front hairline to the nape.
• Petrissage: Kneading movements that lift and squeeze the scalp gently; used mainly when applying conditioner or a scalp treatment.
• Vibration: Fine trembling movements of the fingers held on the scalp; soothing at the end of a treatment.
• Tapotement: Light tapping with the fingertips; used sparingly and avoided on a sensitive scalp.
• When not to massage: Massage is reduced or avoided before a relaxer or other chemical service (to prevent irritation), and where there are cuts, abrasions, infection or inflammation.

Shampooing and conditioning procedure

1. Gown and protect: Seat the client at the basin with a gown, towel and, where needed, a cape; check the neck rest fits comfortably.
2. Test the water: Run the water and test its temperature and pressure on the inside of the wrist; keep it warm, not hot.
3. Wet the hair: Saturate the hair from the hairline back, shielding the face and ears with the hand.
4. Apply shampoo: Spread a measured amount between the palms and apply evenly from the hairline to the nape.
5. Massage: Use rotary movements over the whole scalp, then work the lather through to the ends.
6. Rinse and repeat: Rinse thoroughly and repeat the shampoo if the hair was very dirty or heavily coated.
7. Condition: Remove excess water, apply conditioner from mid-lengths to ends, comb through with a wide-tooth comb and leave for the stated time.
8. Final rinse and towel dry: Rinse until the water runs clear, wrap the hair in a clean towel and blot, never rub, before taking the client to the styling chair.