3.1 Personal protective equipment
Personal protective equipment (PPE) is the clothing and gear that the beekeeper wears to keep bees from reaching the skin, and it is the first line of defence against stings. Bees defend their colony most fiercely at the face, hands and ankles, so these are the areas that need the best cover. Well-fitted PPE gives the beekeeper confidence, and a calm beekeeper handles the colony more gently, which in turn keeps the bees calmer. Example: a community beekeeping group that insists every member is fully dressed before approaching the apiary will have fewer stings, fewer rushed movements and fewer crushed bees.
The table below lists the main items of protective clothing used when working a colony.
| Name |
Specification |
Use |
| Bee suit or overall |
Light-coloured, thick cotton, with elastic or tied cuffs and ankles |
Prevents stings through clothing and stops bees crawling in |
| Veil and hat |
Fine mesh that stands clear of the face, attached firmly to the hat or suit |
Protects the face, eyes and neck, which are the most sensitive areas |
| Gloves |
Leather or thick cloth, long enough to cover the wrist |
Protects the hands, though thin gloves allow better feel |
| Gumboots |
Smooth rubber, with trouser legs sealed over the top |
Protects the feet and ankles |
Bee suit
A bee suit is a full-length overall, with or without an attached veil, worn over ordinary clothes to stop stings through the fabric and to stop bees crawling inside. It is the main protective garment, because it covers the arms, body and legs, which together make up most of the exposed skin. In a top-bar hive apiary, where the beekeeper leans over the hive and lifts combs close to the body, a well-fitted suit allows slow, steady work without fear of stings.
The points below describe what to look for in a suitable suit.
- Colour: Light colours such as white or cream are best, because bees treat dark colours as a sign of a predator and become more defensive.
- Fabric: Thick, closely woven cotton or a similar material that a sting cannot easily pass through. Thin or stretched fabric clings to the skin and lets stings through.
- Fit: The suit should be loose enough to allow free movement and to leave an air gap over the skin, but not so baggy that it catches on the hive or bars.
- Cuffs and ankles: Elastic or tied closures at the wrists and ankles keep bees from crawling up the sleeves and legs.
- Zips and seams: Zips should be covered by a flap or fully closed, and seams should be sound, because bees find even small gaps.
- Surface: Smooth fabric is better than rough, woolly or fluffy material, which bees tend to cling to and attack.
Gloves
Gloves protect the hands, which are in constant contact with the hive and are the part of the body that bees meet most often during an inspection. Gloves are usually made of leather or thick cloth and should be long enough to cover the wrist and overlap the suit sleeve. A beekeeper who is new to the work often feels safer in thick gloves, while an experienced beekeeper may prefer thinner ones because they allow a better feel when lifting comb.
The following points guide the choice and use of gloves.
- Material: Leather or thick cloth resists stings better than thin fabric or plastic. Thin household rubber gloves give little protection against stings and trap sweat, so they suit only gentle colonies and light work.
- Length: Pull the glove cuff over the suit sleeve and seal the join with elastic or a band, so that no skin shows at the wrist.
- Fit: Gloves that are too large make the hands clumsy and risk dropping or crushing a comb. Gloves that are too tight reduce blood flow and tire the hands.
- Feel: Thick gloves reduce sensitivity, so the beekeeper must work more slowly and check each movement. Thin gloves give better control but offer less protection.
- Cleanliness: Gloves that have touched honey, propolis or crushed bees carry alarm scent that can make the next colony defensive. They should be brushed or washed after use, and dried before storage.
Gumboots
Gumboots protect the feet and ankles, which are close to the ground where bees often land and crawl upwards. Smooth rubber boots are the best choice because bees cannot grip the surface or find gaps. Boots also keep the feet dry and safe from thorns and insects while the beekeeper walks through grass around the apiary.
The points below describe how gumboots should be selected and worn.
- Material: Smooth rubber or similar material, which bees cannot cling to and which is easy to wipe clean.
- Height: The boot should reach at least to the lower calf so that there is a good overlap with the trouser leg.
- Sealing the top: The trouser leg should go over the top of the boot and be held firmly by a band or elastic, so that bees cannot crawl up the leg from the ground.
- Colour: Light-coloured boots are preferred, since dark boots may attract more attention from guard bees.
- Grip: Soles with a good tread stop slipping on wet grass or around the hive, and so help the beekeeper to stay balanced while holding a heavy comb.
- Condition: Boots with cracks, holes or split seams give bees an entry point and should be repaired or replaced.
Veil and hat
The face, eyes, ears and neck are the most sensitive places to be stung, and bees often fly directly at the face because they are attracted by breath. A veil on a hat protects these areas and also stops bees from getting into the hair. A hat with a wide brim holds the veil away from the face so that a sting on the mesh does not reach the skin.
- Mesh: Fine mesh allows clear sight, and its black colour reduces glare, which makes inspection easier.
- Attachment: The veil must be fixed to the hat and tucked into or fastened to the suit so that there is no gap at the neck.
- Distance from the face: The mesh should stand clear of the face, because bees can sting through mesh that touches the skin.
- Fit of the hat: The hat should sit firmly on the head so that it does not slip or push the mesh against the face when the beekeeper bends over the hive.
- Condition: Check the mesh for holes, torn seams and weak fasteners before every visit to the apiary.
Dressing correctly before work
Putting on protective equipment in the right order leaves no gaps through which bees can enter. Dress away from the hives, in a clean, calm area, and ask a colleague to check you if possible.
- Remove strong scents: Avoid perfume, strongly scented soap and sweat-soaked clothing, because strong smells irritate bees. Avoid dark, rough or woolly clothing, which bees treat as a threat.
- Put on inner clothing: Wear long trousers and a long-sleeved shirt of ordinary light cloth under the suit, so that any sting that reaches the outer fabric does not reach the skin.
- Put on the bee suit: Step into the suit, close the zip fully and fasten the cuffs and ankle closures.
- Put on gumboots: Pull the trouser and suit legs over the top of the boots and secure them firmly.
- Put on the hat and veil: Check that the mesh stands clear of the face, and that the veil is firmly fixed to the suit around the neck.
- Put on the gloves: Pull the glove cuffs over the suit sleeves and seal the join with elastic or a band, so that no skin shows at the wrist.
- Check for gaps and holes: Look at the suit, gloves, veil and boots in good light, and ask a colleague to check your back and neck. Repair or replace anything damaged before approaching the hive.
Care of protective equipment
Protective equipment lasts longer and works better if it is cleaned and stored properly. It also reduces the spread of disease from one apiary to another.
- Wash the suit regularly: Wash it with mild, unscented soap and dry it fully in an airy place out of strong sun, because strong sun fades and weakens the fabric and veil. Alarm scent and honey on the fabric can make the bees defensive at the next visit.
- Clean before moving apiaries: Wash the gloves and boots, and brush off wax, propolis and dead bees, especially if disease was suspected in a hive, so that nothing is carried to the next apiary.
- Inspect for damage: Check seams, zips, veil mesh and glove stitching after every use, and repair small holes at once.
- Store dry and sealed: Keep the equipment in a dry, closed cupboard or bag so that rats, moths and damp do not damage it.
- Replace worn items: A suit that is thin, torn or faded no longer protects and should be replaced rather than patched repeatedly.
Responding to stings
Even with correct protective equipment, stings will sometimes happen. Remove the sting at once, scraping it out with a fingernail or blade if possible, because speed matters most: the venom sac goes on pumping venom for up to a minute. Move away from the hive, deal with the sting and return to work only when the bees have calmed. Anyone who develops swelling of the face, difficulty in breathing, dizziness or a widespread rash after a sting needs urgent medical attention, because these are signs of a severe allergic reaction. A farm that keeps several hives should have a first aid kit and the number of the nearest health facility at the apiary.
The rest of this chapter
🔒Create a free account to open more of this chapter.
Free: practical guides, quick cards, workplace scenarios and more.
Create a free account 🔒3.2 Opening of Bee hives
Opening a hive means removing the cover and lifting out the combs so that the colony can be examined and worked on. It is the first physical step of colony division, because the beekeeper must see the brood, stores, population and queen cells before deciding h…
🔒3.3 Tools and equipment for colony division
Dividing a honey bee colony involves opening a hive, handling combs or bars covered in bees, and moving brood and bees into a new hive. This work is safer for the beekeeper, and less stressful for the bees, when the right basic tools are used correctly. The th…
🔒3.4 Division of honey bee colony
Colony division is the planned splitting of one strong honey bee colony into two or more colonies, so that the apiary grows without buying bees or waiting for a wild swarm. Done at the right time and in the right way, it increases the number of hives, reduces…
🔒3.5 Colony divisions
Colony division is the planned splitting of one strong honey bee colony into two or more colonies, so that the apiary grows without buying bees or waiting for wild swarms. It also reduces overcrowding and the urge to swarm, which protects honey yield. Example:…